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Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(1):39-47
“The role
of dimethylaminoethanol in cosmetic dermatology.”
Grossman R.
Johnson and Johnson Consumer Products Worldwide, Skillman,
NJ 08558, USA.
Skincare formulations for the improvement of aging skin are increasingly
important consumer products. Here, we review available data on
one such agent - 2-dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) or deanol - that
has recently been evaluated in a placebo-controlled trial. DMAE
is an analog of the B vitamin choline and is a precursor of acetylcholine.
Although the role of acetylcholine as a neurotransmitter is well
known, growing evidence points to acetylcholine as a ubiquitous
cytokine-like molecule that regulates basic cellular processes
such as proliferation, differentiation, locomotion, and secretion
in a paracrine and autocrine fashion. Indeed, this modulatory
role may contribute to the cutaneous activity of DMAE. In a randomized
clinical study, 3% DMAE facial gel applied daily for 16 weeks
has been shown to be safe and efficacious (p < 0.05) in the
mitigation of forehead lines and periorbital fine wrinkles, and
in improving lip shape and fullness and the overall appearance
of aging skin. These effects did not regress during a 2-week cessation
of application. Beneficial trends (p > 0.05 but </= 0.1)
were noted in the appearance of coarse wrinkles, under-eye dark
circles, nasolabial folds, sagging neck skin, and neck firmness.
Application was found to be well tolerated, with no differences
in the incidence of erythema, peeling, dryness, itching, burning,
or stinging between the DMAE and placebo groups. An open-label
extension of the trial showed that the long-term application of
DMAE gel for up to 1 year was associated with a good safety profile.
The acute skin-firming effects of DMAE have been confirmed by
quantitative measures of cutaneous tensile strength. In vitro
studies in peripheral blood lymphocytes indicate that DMAE is
a moderately active anti-inflammatory agent. Although its mechanisms
of action in the skin remain to be elucidated, evidence suggests
that the skin is an active site of acetylcholine synthesis, storage,
secretion, metabolism, and receptivity. Muscarinic acetylcholine
receptors have been localized to keratinocytes, melanocytes and
dermal fibroblasts, whereas nicotinic acetylcholine receptors
have been found in keratinocytes. The role of acetylcholine and
the role of DMAE as a modulator of acetylcholine-mediated functions
in the skin remain to be elucidated. Thus, the benefits of DMAE
in dermatology include a potential anti-inflammatory effect and
a documented increase in skin firmness with possible improvement
in underlying facial muscle tone. Studies are needed to evaluate
the relative efficacy of DMAE compared with other skin-care regimens
(e.g., topical antioxidant creams, alpha-hydroxy acids).
Skin Res Technol. 2002 Aug;8(3):164-7.
“Split face
study on the cutaneous tensile effect
of 2-dimethylaminoethanol (deanol) gel.”
Uhoda I, Faska N, Robert
C, Cauwenbergh G, Pierard GE.
Unit of Dermocosmetology, Department of Dermatopathology, University
Medical Center of Liege, CHU Sart Tilman, B-4000 Liege, Belgium.
BACKGROUND/AIMS: Beyond subjective
assessments, the effect of skin tensors is difficult to assess.
The present 2-phase randomized double-blind split face study was
designed to compare the effect of a gel containing 3% 2-dimethylaminoethanol
(deanol, DMAE) with the same formulation without DMAE. METHODS:
In a first pilot study, sensorial assessments and measures of
the skin distension under suction were performed in eight volunteers.
In a second study conducted in 30 volunteers, shear wave propagation
was measured. RESULTS: Large interindividual variations precluded
any significant finding in the first study. The DMAE formulation
showed, however, a significant effect characterized by increased
shear wave velocity in the direction where the mechanical anisotropy
of skin showed looseness. CONCLUSION: The DMAE formulation under
investigation increased skin firmness.