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A New Anti-Wrinkle Peptide

ARGIRELINE®
(Acetyl Hexapeptide-8)
Argireline:
Inhibits Wrinkle Formation
Argireline from Lipotec S.A. is a unique new peptide that both
reduces the degree of existing facial wrinkles and has been demonstrated
effective against their development. It’s been shown to
inhibit the formation of the SNARE complex as well as catecholamine
release. These inhibitions confer anti-aging activity on Argireline;
they closely relate to the basic biochemical mechanisms of wrinkle
formation.
Controlled studies have also
demonstrated that facial wrinkle depth can be reduced, especially
in the forehead and around the eyes, and that Argireline can prevent
apparent facial skin aging. Skin topographic analysis performed
on healthy female volunteers confirmed the validation of the proposed
biochemical mechanism of action.
Causes
of Facial Wrinkling
Facial wrinkling associated with aging is caused – and exacerbated
– by many factors. Beyond the physiological pathways, molecular
mechanisms involved in facial aging include changes in collagen
conformation, elastin polypeptide degradation, and problems of
the skin’s lipid matrix. Recent studies clearly establish
that these changes can be significantly reduced by inhibiting
SNARE complex formation, a core of membrane proteins that mediate
neuronal exocytosis. Their inhibition by short synthetic peptides
can decrease facial wrinkle formation, and thereby the appearance
of aging. The overproduction and release of catecholamines also
encourages the formation of wrinkles and fine lines.
The
Technology
Argireline’s specific sequence was discovered within Lipotec’s
combinatorial library of hexapeptides and shown to inhibit the
SNARE complex formation and catecholamine release. Once identified,
it was synthesized by solid phase peptide synthesis and then purified
and characterized.
Argireline solution was found
to inhibit vesicle docking by preventing formation of the essential
ternary SNARE Complex. Inhibition of noradrenaline and adrenaline
release was also demonstrated in a second in vitro study.
In vivo tests further
demonstrated the benefits of Argireline solution. Facial topography
analysis (for measuring the effectiveness of an O/W emulsion containing
10% Argireline solution) was performed using silicon replicas
from around the eyes at 0, 15 and 30 days of a twice-a-day treatment
regimen. Analyses of the imprints were performed by confocal laser
scanning microscopy. It was observed that the severity of wrinkles
around the eyes decreased up to 17% after 15 days of treatment
and up to 27% after 30 days of treatment, substantiating the proposed
biochemical mechanism hypothesis.
Argireline
Efficacy Testing
The anti-wrinkle effect of Argireline solution was ascertained
in two different in vitro tests directly related to the formation
of wrinkles in the epidermis as well as a separate in vivo test
performed on healthy human volunteers.
IN
VITRO TESTING
SNARE complex modulation in chromaffin cells
This test evaluates inhibition of the SNARE complex formed by
peptides from the N-terminus of SNAP-25 (synaptosome-associated
protein of 25kDa). Argireline solution modulates SNARE complex
formation at concentrations in the mM range (see Fig. 1).
Chromaffin cells were prepared
and further separated from erythrocytes and other impurities by
centrifugation gradient. Cells were maintained in monolayer cultures.
The ternary SNARE complex was precipitated and incubated with
Argireline and other related peptides, or without them (as a control).
Immunocomplexes were analyzed under non-reducing conditions and
immunoblotted with an anti-syntaxin mAb.
Argireline proved to modulate
vesicle docking by attenuating the formation of the essential
ternary SNARE complex.
Modulation
of catecholamine release in chromaffin cells
Inhibition of the release of catecholamines was determined by
monitoring the neurotransmitters adrenaline and noradrenaline.
Chromaffin cells were incubated with tritiated noradrenaline/adrenaline
and Argireline. The release of catecholamines, as well as the
total cell content, was determined by liquid scintillation counting.
The significant modulation of both neurotransmitters at nM concentrations
of Argireline solution is a clear indicator of the potent anti-wrinkle
activity of this hexapeptide (see Fig. 2).
IN VIVO TESTING
Determination of efficacy against facial wrinkling
An independent study of the effect of Argireline solution on the
elasticity of the skin around the eyes was performed. Using silicone
facial replicas and confocal microscopic analysis, the researchers
measured changes in the depth of skin wrinkling. The skin replicas
below (see Figs. 3, 4) show the improvement in facial smoothness
at 15 and 30 days post-Argireline treatment, compared with the
results obtained without the incorporation of Argireline solution
into the test cream.
The researchers concluded that
Argireline solution reduced the depth of wrinkles up to 17% after
15 days and 27% following 30 days of treatment.
CYTOTOXICITY
Human dermal fibroblasts
The test was conducted on human dermal fibroblasts at concentrations
between 10 µg/ml and 1 mg/ml with a cell density of 21,000
cell/cm2. No signs of cytotoxicity were observed.
Human epidermal keratinocytes
The test was carried out on human epidermal keratinocytes at concentrations
between 10 µg/ml and 1 mg/ml with a keratinocyte density
of 15,000 cell/cm2. The results showed no signs of cytotoxicity
at the concentrations assayed.
Cosmetic Application
Argireline can be incorporated in cosmetic formulations such as
emulsions, gels, sera, etc., where the reduction in deep lines
or wrinkles in the forehead or around the eyes area is desired.
The recommended dosage of Argireline is 5%.
Product Specifications
Argireline solution
| Code:
PD010 |
INCI name: Water,
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 |
| Appearance: Transparent
solution |
% Argireline powder:
0.05% |
| SNARE
Complex Formulation |
 |
Fig. 1.
Modulation of SNARE complex formation
by analogues of the N-terminus of SNAP-25. |
| Catecholamine
Release Inhibition |
 |
Fig. 2.
Modulation of catecholamine release |
 |
Fig.
3. Skin replicas of
skin that was untreated
(top row) and treated with
10% Argireline®-containing
cream formulation. |
| 0
days |
15
days |
30
days |
|
 |
Fig.
4. Additional replicas
of skin that was treated
with 10% Argireline®-con-
taining cream formulation
at 0, 15, and 30 days. |
| 0
days |
15
days |
30
days |
|
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