The discovery of this hexapeptide
(six naturally occurring amino acids in combination) is an exciting
find, as Argireline® is the first peptide to offer effects
similar to that of Botox®. Argireline® works by mimicking
a component of the SNARE complex and by inhibiting the over-production
and release of catecholamines. By blocking these neurotransmitters,
Argireline® reduces the contraction of muscles and reduces
wrinkles and prevents wrinkle formation.
Argireline®, like Botox®,
locally disrupts nerve signals sent to muscles, relaxing the
muscles and flattening the overlying skin. Argireline® is
the only ingredient in cosmetics today offering the same results
as Botox® without needles or the risk of damage to the skin
or facial muscles.
Controlled studies have demonstrated
that facial wrinkle depth can be reduced, especially in the
forehead and around the eyes, and that Argireline can prevent
apparent facial skin aging. Skin topographic analysis performed
on healthy female volunteers confirmed the validation of the
proposed biochemical mechanism of action.
Causes
of Facial Wrinkling
Facial wrinkling associated with aging is caused – and
exacerbated – by many factors. Beyond the physiological
pathways, molecular mechanisms involved in facial aging include
changes in collagen conformation, elastin polypeptide degradation,
and problems of the skin’s lipid matrix. Recent studies
clearly establish that these changes can be significantly reduced
by inhibiting SNARE complex formation, a core of membrane proteins
that mediate neuronal exocytosis. Their inhibition by short
synthetic peptides can decrease facial wrinkle formation, and
thereby the appearance of aging. The overproduction and release
of catecholamines also encourages the formation of wrinkles
and fine lines.
The
Technology
Argireline’s specific sequence was discovered within Lipotec’s
combinatorial library of hexapeptides and shown to inhibit the
SNARE complex formation and catecholamine release. Once identified,
it was synthesized by solid phase peptide synthesis and then
purified and characterized.
Argireline solution was found
to inhibit vesicle docking by preventing formation of the essential
ternary SNARE Complex. Inhibition of noradrenaline and adrenaline
release was also demonstrated in a second in vitro study.
In vivo tests further
demonstrated the benefits of Argireline solution. Facial topography
analysis (for measuring the effectiveness of an O/W emulsion
containing 10% Argireline solution) was performed using silicon
replicas from around the eyes at 0, 15 and 30 days of a twice-a-day
treatment regimen. Analyses of the imprints were performed by
confocal laser scanning microscopy. It was observed that the
severity of wrinkles around the eyes decreased up to 17% after
15 days of treatment and up to 27% after 30 days of treatment,
substantiating the proposed biochemical mechanism hypothesis.
Argireline
Efficacy Testing
The anti-wrinkle effect of Argireline solution was ascertained
in two different in vitro tests directly related to the formation
of wrinkles in the epidermis as well as a separate in vivo test
performed on healthy human volunteers.
IN
VITRO TESTING
SNARE complex modulation in chromaffin cells
This test evaluates inhibition of the SNARE complex formed by
peptides from the N-terminus of SNAP-25 (synaptosome-associated
protein of 25kDa). Argireline solution modulates SNARE complex
formation at concentrations in the mM range (see Fig. 1).
Chromaffin cells were prepared
and further separated from erythrocytes and other impurities
by centrifugation gradient. Cells were maintained in monolayer
cultures. The ternary SNARE complex was precipitated and incubated
with Argireline and other related peptides, or without them
(as a control). Immunocomplexes were analyzed under non-reducing
conditions and immunoblotted with an anti-syntaxin mAb.
Argireline proved to modulate
vesicle docking by attenuating the formation of the essential
ternary SNARE complex.
Modulation
of catecholamine release in chromaffin cells
Inhibition of the release of catecholamines was determined by
monitoring the neurotransmitters adrenaline and noradrenaline.
Chromaffin cells were incubated with tritiated noradrenaline/adrenaline
and Argireline. The release of catecholamines, as well as the
total cell content, was determined by liquid scintillation counting.
The significant modulation of both neurotransmitters at nM concentrations
of Argireline solution is a clear indicator of the potent anti-wrinkle
activity of this hexapeptide (see Fig. 2).
IN VIVO TESTING
Determination of efficacy against facial wrinkling
An independent study of the effect of Argireline solution on
the elasticity of the skin around the eyes was performed. Using
silicone facial replicas and confocal microscopic analysis,
the researchers measured changes in the depth of skin wrinkling.
The skin replicas below (see Figs. 3, 4) show the improvement
in facial smoothness at 15 and 30 days post-Argireline treatment,
compared with the results obtained without the incorporation
of Argireline solution into the test cream.
The researchers concluded
that Argireline solution reduced the depth of wrinkles up to
17% after 15 days and 27% following 30 days of treatment.
Product Specifications
Argireline solution
| Code:
PD010 |
INCI name: Water,
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 |
| Appearance: Transparent
solution |
% Argireline
powder: 0.05% |
| SNARE
Complex Formulation |
 |
Fig. 1.
Modulation of SNARE complex formation
by analogues of the N-terminus of SNAP-25. |
| Catecholamine
Release Inhibition |
 |
Fig. 2.
Modulation of catecholamine release |
 |
Fig.
3. Skin replicas of
skin that was untreated
(top row) and treated with
10% Argireline®-containing
cream formulation. |
| 0
days |
15
days |
30
days |
|
 |
Fig.
4. Additional replicas
of skin that was treated
with 10% Argireline®-con-
taining cream formulation
at 0, 15, and 30 days. |
| 0
days |
15
days |
30
days |
|
*Botox® is
a registered trademark of Allergan, Inc.