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Eyeseryl:
A novel synthetic tetrapeptide to fight puffy eyes
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Eyeseryl: A novel synthetic
tetrapeptide to fight puffy eyes
September 2005
Personal Care Magazine Asia Pacific
The following is a two-part
article – the first part examines a novel synthetic tetrapeptide
to fight puffy eyes, which leads on to the second part, entitled
“A laminin-like hexapeptide to enhance skin compactness”.
The skin under our eyes is
the thinnest skin in our bodies, only 0.5 mm thick, and around
four times thinner than the average. This is one of the reasons
why the normal ageing processes of the skin are more visible around
our eyes. Weakened skin folds easier in this area, causing the
“puffy eyebag” effect, and the veins beneath the thin
tissue show through as “dark circles”.
There are two main kinds of
eyebags: those caused by fluid retention and those caused by fat.
As skin loses its elasticity and the connective tissue weakens
through age, loose skin can accumulate around the eyes, forming
folds in the eyelids. Fat, which cushions the eyes in their sockets
moves forward out of the ocular cavities and accumulates in bulging
bags around the eyelids. The removal of this kind of eyebag is
only possible by a surgical procedure called blepharoplasty.1
The other major reason for puffy eyes is water accumulation, known
as eyelid oedema. Fluid may build up for several reasons, two
of the major reasons being poor lymphatic circulation and increased
capillary permeability.
Eyeseryl can fight puffy eyebags
by working on several mechanisms, like strengthening the skin
under the eyes and preventing fluid accumulation. The skin is
strengthened by protecting the collagen structural network from
degradation due to glycation.
The local vascular system
is improved by lowering high blood pressure in the vessels under
the eyes in order to improve lymph drainage and avoid oedema formation.
Materials and methods
Determination of the ACE inhibitory
activity of Eyeseryl It has been suggested that one of the mechanisms
involved in the formation of bags under the eyes is poor blood
circulation due to hypertension. For this reason, a valid mechanism
for an antipuffiness compound would be the local improvement of
blood circulation by an anti-hypertensive effect.
Angiotensin I converting enzyme
(ACE) is a dipeptide liberating exopeptidase, which has been classically
associated with the rennin-angiotensin system regulating peripheral
blood pressure. ACE removes a dipeptide from the C terminus of
angiotensin I to form angiotensin II, a very hypertensitive compound.
The protease renin cleaves angiotensinogen into the inactive decameric
peptide angiotensin-I (Ang-I). Angiotensin-converting enzyme (ACE)
then cleaves a C-terminal dipeptide from Ang-I to form an active
octamer angiotensin-II (Ang-II), which can contribute to hypertension
by promoting vascular smooth muscle vasoconstriction and renal
tubule sodium reabsorption. ACE can also cleave many other small
peptides including the vasodilating peptide bradykinin into an
inactive fragment. It can also cleave the Alzheimer amyloid beta-peptide
(Abeta), and retard its aggregation, deposition and fibril formation.
The ACE inhibitory activity
was determined according to the method of Wang.2 In this test,
cleavage by ACE of a substrate yields a fluorescent dipeptide
which can be measured and its intensity correlated to ACE activity.
The controls used were a standard
solution (where Eyeseryl was replaced by distilled water) and
a blank (where ACE was replaced by distilled water). The ACE activity
was calculated from the following equation and expressed as ACE%:
ACE% = (b-c) / a x 100
…where a is the fluorescence
intensity of the standard solution (ACE), b is the fluorescence
intensity of the reaction mixture with Eyeseryl, and c is the
fluorescence intensity of the blank solution (without ACE). The
ACE inhibitory activity was calculated based on the following
equation:
ACE inhibitory activity (%)
= 100 - ACE% Glycation inhibitory activity of Eyeseryl Glycation
is a non-enzymatic reaction between glucose or another monosaccharide
and a protein. The aldehyde group of the monosaccharide reacts
with the terminal amino group of the amines to produce a Schiff’s
base, forming fructosamine,??or or Amadori adduct. At a second
stage, the Amadori compound may react producing a group of irreversible
reactions (oxidation, crosslinking). Collagen cross-linking is
related to the weakening and ageing of tissues – one of
the main causes of the formation of eyebags. This test was carried
out to evaluate the ability of Eyeseryl to inhibit glycation.
It is known that some enzymes
can suffer glycation in vivo. Among those enzymes we can find
the Cu, Zn- Superoxide Dismutase (SOD). The SOD is an enzyme that
converts superoxide radicals to hydrogen peroxide and oxygen.
The incubation of SOD with glucose or other monosaccharides gives
rise to glycation, which inactivates the enzyme.3 Some compounds
can inhibit SOD glycation and, therefore, maintain its activity.
In this study, the inactivation
of SOD by its reaction with fructose is used as a model of glycation.
The effect of Eyeseryl as an inhibitor of glycation is evaluated.
The method used to assess the SOD activity is by the inhibition
of the transformation of xanthine to uric acid with the enzyme
xanthine oxidase (Fig. 2). With this reaction, WST-1 (2-(4- Iodophenyl)-3-(4-nitrophenyl)-5-(2,4-
disulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium, monosodium salt) is transformed
into formazan, a compound which absorbs at 470 nm. If SOD is added
to this reaction, the radical O2 -- is captured and the formation
of this coloured compound is avoided.
In vivo determination of the
anti-eyebag activity Eyeseryl has been tested in vivo on a group
of 20 female volunteers. A cream containing 0.01% Eyeseryl was
applied twice a day during 60 days under both eyes. Pictures were
taken at 0, 15, 30, 45 and 60 days.
A dermatologist scored visually
the decrease in eyebag puffiness by comparing to the picture taken
at time 0:
1 – No reduction.
2 – Slight reduction.
3 – Fairly good reduction.
4 – Good reduction.
Results and discussion
There is an increase in the
SOD activity measured, which means that Eyeseryl inhibits its
glycation. The glycation inhibiting effect means that the tetrapeptide
protects collagen from degradation, maintaining the correct supporting
function of the connective network.
In vivo eyebag reduction
The scoring table of the dermatologist
is enclosed, as well as the statistical analysis performed on
the data. Since the measurements are non-parametric (which means
the underlying distribution of the variable measured is not known),
they are analysed using Friedman’s Test.5 Puffiness under
the eyes is greatly reduced, even after only 15 days: 70% of the
volunteers had improved at Day 15. Applying Friedman’s Test,
the data for every timepoint is determined to be significant.
At the end of the test, 95%
of the volunteers had improved:
Conclusions
Eyeseryl is capable, by working
on several mechanisms related to eyebag formation, (vascular,
tissue strength, etc), to improve the appearance of eye bags by
reducing their size in only 15 days. The tetrapeptide also seems
to improve dark circles according to visual analysis of the photographs.
References
1 Triana R.J., Larrabee W.F.
Lower eyelid blepharoplasty: the aging eyelid. Facial Plast Surg
1999;15:203-212.
2 Wang Lijun et al. Antioxidative and Angiotensin I-Converting
Enzyme Inhibitory Activities of Sufu (Fermented Tofu) Extracts.
JARQ, 2003, 37, 129-132.
3 Ukeda H. et al. Effect of carnosine and related compounds on
the inactivation of human cu, zn-superoxide dismutase by modification
of fructose and glycoaldehyde. Biosci. Biotechnol. Biochem., 2002,
66 (1), 36 – 43.
4 Ukeda H. et al. Spectrophotometric Assay for Superoxide Dismutase
Based on Tetrazolium Salt 3’-{1-[(Phenylamino)-carbonyl]-3,4-tetrazolium}-
bis(4-methoxy-6-nitro)benzenesulfonic Acid Hydrate Reduction by
Xanthine-Xanthine Oxidase. Anal. Biochem. 1997, 251, 206 –
209.
5 Cristoni A. La significativitá del risultato sperimentale.
Quali test usare? Cosmetic News, 130, 2001, January/February,
30-32.